| In the Steps of Caravaggio: The Ill-fated Genius in Rome | ||
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On May 28 , 1606 in a field near Piazza Navona , two men challenged each other to a duel to settle a dispute over gambling debts and, more than likely, over a woman for whose attention each was vying. The woman was a famous courtesan of the day, one of the two men was Caravaggio, the famous painter, and the other was Ranuccio Tammosoni, who was to fall at the hands of Caravaggio. Caravaggio himself was gravely wounded, but fearing to fall into the hands of Spanish justice, he flees from Rome and the Papal States. And so begins Caravaggio's long exile , never to set foot again in Rome. Over the next four years he is to live for short periods in Naples, the islands of Malta and Sicily, and then back again to Naples in August 1609. During this last sojourn in Naples, Caravaggio suffers from grievous bodily harm, yet despite long periods of suffering, he is surprisingly active producing extraordinary works of art. In the summer of the following year, he leaves Naples on board a small sailing boat headed to Rome, where his protectors are attempting to extract a pardon from the pope to clear him of the death penalty which still hangs over his head. He brings aboard with him three paintings, among which, Infant St. John the Baptist and probably David with Goliath's Head. But he meets his death on the shores of Port Empedocle in southern Tuscany, about 100km from Rome. It's not known if his death was due to the worsening of his already precarious state of health, a bout of malaria or yet another scuffle. We know from the grave stone that he was buried there at the age of 39 after days of terrible suffering and agony. Death, which he had so often depicted- dark, ferocious and inexorable. The spectre of death remained with him constantly, no doubt conjuring a hundred new and ancient visions in the heart and mind of the artist. But those images are to remain a mystery, the mystery of a man difficult to understand even through his art work. A violent, rebellious and turbulent genius, yet with so much more lying within his depths. A journey undertaken by examining works of art by Caravaggio present in the Borghese Gallery , the churches of Santa Maria del Popolo, San Luigi dei Francesi, and Sant'Agostino , and in the gallery of the Barberini Palace. |
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